As the lines started straining we doubled them up. By 5pm the gusts were coming through at 45 knots (90kph) and we’d been pushed so far forward in our berth that our bowsprit was just about touching the vessel on the opposite side and our bobstay was only inches off the walkway. The spring line that I had in place was chaffing through so I strung extra lines from the opposite side of the dock. I actually attached them to the heavy chains that hold the dock because the cleats are rusty and look as though they could let go at any time! By running a spring through the front fairlead and back to the big primary winch I could crank the boat back off the dock and tighten up the lines again. All this while Sandy was listening to the dramas on the VHF radio as 8 container ships at anchor were listing badly and requesting assistance. One lost 2 x 40ft containers overboard.
A yacht with more bravado than good sense actually went out to the harbour area and Sandy watched it getting knocked about for nearly 2 hours before they managed to work their way back to the marina, looking very sheepish. They really were idiots for going out in the first place.
We were supposed to go to a fund raising pantomime. Sandy had her dress and shoes all ready and we were looking forward to it, but we had to cancel. I shudder to think what the seas would have been like where the Agulhas current runs down the coast. We will be extra diligent when picking weather windows to sail from here.
The South African coast is considered to be one of the most difficult sailing areas in the world of long distance sailors. The current is strong and so are the SW winds that come roaring up against it from the Cape fairly regularly. The 100 fathom line is the edge of the continental shelf and waves over 20 meters are not uncommon. I remember ships breaking in half when hit by freak waves after the Suez canal was closed during the 6 day war in 1967. Super tankers were being built to make the extra distance round the Cape of Good Hope economically feasible. It took a while before they worked out how to make them strong enough, and how to avoid the danger areas.
We’ve now been in Durban for 2 weeks and as usual we’re into ‘extra time’ while we wait for that elusive next weather window to sail to East London. It’s the longest hop on the route to Cape Town without anchorages to run to if the weather turns bad. Fortunately we can count on 3 or 4 good days if we leave on the back of a SW gale, and we only need 2 to get to East London. This batch of South westerlies should peter out by the 18th so that could be our ‘go’.
But we’ve used our time here well. It took us a few days to get settled and find the people we needed to tackle the work on the boat. What a pleasure it is getting work done here. Well, is it ever a pleasure really? But we’ve had welders, riggers, electricians and a generator guy chipping away at our list. They all tackle their work as though they are keen to do the work and do it right. The pleasure part is using Aussie or U.S dollars. The exchange rate makes the cost seem amazingly low, apart from imported items that may be needed.
We finally have a generator that runs sweetly, the way it was always meant to. Andy is ex navy and found and fixed the last remaining issues in no time. The davits are welded with more reinforcing, and they threw in 2 other little welding jobs on the life rails. The rigger is a young guy, Michael, with a ton of experience on racing boats and really should charge more for his services. We dismantled, reattached and refitted the rollerfurling system for the mainsail, at last. He found damage to the mainsail itself and got that repaired overnight. It was a difficult job but he never lost his cool over it, or loaded the bill as so many tradesmen seem to.
While working on the generator I noticed that the water in the bilge had crept a bit higher overnight. Sure enough, the bilge pumps had failed again. Both of them big name brands and both under a year old. I don’t know how you can take an electrician called “Lolly” seriously, but he’s a legend. He totally replaced the bilge pumping system. New pumps, new float switches wired via the negative to reduce electrolysis in salt water, other little gizmos to increase efficiency etc, it looks like we have a small nuclear power station down there. Then he reset the monitoring system for the battery banks so we now get accurate information and can be a whole lot more efficient with our power usage. And the fan in the galley works again so Sandy is all smiles, and the side cabin lights are working for the first time since Australia. It says a lot when your sparkie turns up early on a weekend morning and says “I couldn’t sleep last night because I was worried that float switch could play up. I thought of a better way to do it...”
Durban definitely is the place to get work done. We’ve had all 14 portholes resealed so that will take care of the water that used to work its way into the lockers in rough seas. We’re hoping we find similar pricing down the coast because our cockpit cushions are on their last legs and friends here are getting canvass work done on their boat at an amazingly good price.
We’ve had a few old friends I haven’t seen for 28 years drop by the boat. They’d heard via Face book that we’d arrived and it was great to renew the friendships. In fact Barry and Elsie took us on a grand tour of Durban and surrounds last Sunday. What an eye opener.
South Africa hosted the World Cup Football in 2010 and a ton of money was spent on new facilities and attractions which have now become part of the mainstream tourism scene. Durban beach front has changed beyond recognition in some areas with an excellent balance between Zulu traditions and atmosphere and 21st century expectations. The eShaka complex is outstanding and as we approached it Zulu dancers were giving a great display of high kicks to the pounding of drums. We wandered through the curio shops and boutiques and were amazed to see a shipwreck making up a major part of the complex. It really looks like the real thing. But it has restaurants and an amazing aquarium including huge shark tanks. In fact it is the best aquarium we’ve ever seen, including San Diego and Sydney.
We took a drive out to Umhlanga Rocks, an area that used to be an up market tourist area with wealthier folk living there and commuting to Durban. On the way we passed Virginia airport with memories of nailbiting landings, loops and stalls where in another life I got my licence.
The coastal bit of Umhlanga is still as I remember it, but the real ‘city’ has developed up on the hills that used to be covered with sugarcane. The development is mind blowing. Durban city really has moved to the urban areas as the city itself has become run down and unsafe.
There is no doubt that the white ‘privileged’ society is still flourishing, except that it is now available to all who aspire to it. Other races are represented but the standards enjoyed are equal to the best the first world can offer anywhere on the planet. The shopping centres, shops themselves, goods and services available are second to none. The frustrating part is that we could have 2 large coffees, a scone and an apple crumble with icecream at Gloria Jeanes here for less than the price of just 2 small coffees at Gloria Jeanes in Australia.
We then drove inland because I wanted Sandy to see The Valley of a Thousand Hills. It’s a wonderful elevated outlook and is still pretty much as I remember it with little clusters of African huts on some of the hilltops down below. It’s a peaceful scene and Barry knew a good place serving a carvery lunch. We had a table at the outer edge with a perfect view. As a bonus for Sandy some monkeys in the bushes right next to us entertained us with their clownish antics. They’d watch the waiters and as soon as they were far enough away, dart down like lightening and steal a tomato sauce or sugar sachet. Some had babies and there were a few playful ‘teenagers’ too. Now Sandy doesn’t know if she wants a monkey or a macaw for a pet when our sailing days are over! There must be an app for that.
From there we drove through a very interesting housing estate. The developer has created a mini game park with zebra, a variety of antelope, giraffe, wildebeest etc roaming the lush green hills. It’s all unfenced apart from the outside perimeter, but there aren’t any really aggressive species. The houses are all thatch roofed and luxurious with plenty of space between them. There is a peace and serenity to the place. Barry knows the developer and got permission to drive through the guarded gates.
It was just about evening and we were expecting to head back to the coast, but there was one more stop. We pulled into a restaurant/bistro type place, and there were more old friends I haven’t seen in more decades than I care to count. Somehow we found space for yet another meal as we caught up with Diane and Tony, and Jurie and Di. It was a fantastic day and evening.
And now it’s a week later and happens to be Sunday the 14th, a day that once a year reminds me that there is a reason the joints creak and the world seems crazier than a year ago. I guess I’m still here to count them so that is better fortune than some. I believe there is an excellent carvery at the Royal Natal Yacht Club so we’ll be there, talking boats no doubt.
It’s been quite an experience being back in Durban again. So much has changed, and yet so much is familiar. While the risks and dangers are always close, we’ve found the everyday interaction with the ‘natives’ to be extremely good. They are courteous, happy and helpful. Durban city itself has gone very third world, but life here is pretty good. The one big problem is the inability of the government to maintain buildings and infrastructure. All government buildings are badly run down and they are totally incapable of keeping the electricity supply up to requirements. Every day sections of the city close down for hours at a time as ‘power sharing’ is the only way for everyone to get some. It’s difficult to know how well things like railways, water, etc are being maintained. I suspect not very well either although there is no ready evidence of that.
Well, with any luck we’ll be on our way south again this week.
Until next time...