enough taking on the work we knew we wanted to do to make this old barge 'home'.
The work that has come with the package, uninvited has been a lot more than we
expected.
Here in St Martin, or to be pedantic, Sint Maarten, because we are actually
on the Dutch side where all the better facilities are for boat supplies, we have
replaced the broken mizzen shroud and another, along with some fittings that
werer showing hairline cracks.
We've also done a ton of other jobs, some from the original list but many
that just arrive unheralded like squatters... "Here we are. Deal with it."
It seems to be the nature of the cruising life that boats need continual
work. We can at least take some comfort in knowing we bought an old lady of the
sea. I feel sorry for the folk who buy a boat that is only a few years old, or
in some cases new, and have to do running repairs right away, just not as many
as Wind Wanderer.
We've been waiting for a weather window to sail to Panama and expected to
have left here at least a week ago, but the weather off Columbia has been worse
than it's normal grumpy self, and in fact gale force winds were predicted for
about now. I haven't checked the weather lately to see if they're happening.
It does look as though we may get away this Thursday with good conditions for
departing the eastern Caribbean, and moderated conditions off Columbia by the
time we get there around Monday/Tuesday next week. It should be a 6 day downwind
run.
Now that I've watched the riggers on the boat, and by the way the two we've
had have both been excellent. Colin, a young South African who had his own
rigging business in Durban, and Arthur, a local product, are amazing to see in
action. They climb up and down the rigging like monkeys, totally at home
swinging around their man-made tree tops. And here I felt my excursions to the
top of the mast were worth at least a VC, each time!
But seeing what they look for got me going, and sure enough I found some
cracks, or more like blistering on one of the bowsprit whiskers. I took pictures
and went in to talk to them. I must admit they looked quite bad when zoomed
in.
They stopped by the boat last Friday while Sandy was here and confirmed that
the wire needed replacing, and while they were here they examined the bobstay.
It's made up of 2 stainless steel rods that brace the bowsprit tip to the
waterline and counteract the fore stays holding up the main mast, so pretty
important. They looked robust, but again they were found to have cracks, some
quite deep.
So, today and tomorrow we'll be renewing the rods, which will have to be made
up, along with the whiskers.
Once again we've avoided a potential disaster by good misfortune!
St Martin is an odd island. It's not the typical white beaches, palm trees
and Bob Marley music that typifies the Caribbean, at least in our imaginations.
Of course it does have sandy white beaches and beautiful clear water, but we're
here out of season so many of the things that get rolled out for the tourist
industry are closed up. It makes you realize that so much is façade. I wonder if
the tourists know they are participating in a show and not life in the
Caribbean. I wonder if they even stop to think about it.
The island is divided with the north being French and the south being Dutch.
Two countries in fact on one 37 square kilometer island. Most of it is very
third world but there are little pockets of wealth and of course the
resorts.
The Dutch side seems to have better infrastructure and to be better run
generally. This is where the big marinas are that cater for the superyachts that
come and go all the time. But it's is the hurricane season so things are much
quieter now.
We're in no position to comment on the Caribbean because we've seen so little
of it, but the two islands we've spent a bit of time on, St Martin and Grand
Cayman have many similarities. We would have loved to explore more of the
Caribbean because by reputation, many of the other islands are more picturesque
and friendly.
Ideally, we should head down to Grenada for the hurricane season and explore
some of the 'safe' islands and head across the Pacific next year. But we've
already been away longer than we intended and we both feel we still want to sail
back to Australia this year. By cruiser standards we are racing through some of
the most beautiful cruising grounds on the planet. Many spend years where we
will be spending a week or two.
To cruise successfully you really have to have your head, heart and boat in
the same place, and that is exactly what we are doing. In another time and space
we may well be back, in fact we fully expect to, and our agenda will be
different.
We have been so busy on the Dutch side that we haven't done much touristy
stuff at all. But we have taken a few breaks. For Sandy's birthday we went to
the famous Sunset Bar and Grill to watch the planes come in low over the sea,
'scrape' over the beach and touch down on the end of the runway. In the old days
people used to hang onto the fence to avoid being blown over, but the fence is
fenced off now!
It was great, except we got there 15 minutes after the last big plane for the
day had landed so we only got to see inter island commuters. But it whetted our
apetites and we determined to get back on another day and check the arrivals
schedule first, which we did. That big KLM 747 coming in low over the beach is a
unique experience.
We needed to stock up with provisions so we hired a car, $25 for the day! Not
only did we do a major shopping expedition, but we drove right around the
island. It was interesting to see it all, and get some French pastries, bread
and Dutch cheese. We discovered markets, pretty beaches, even a 'clothing
optional' one. Sandy has been collecting samples of sea sand from each island
country we go to and it's surprising how different the sand is in the Cayman
Islands, Bermuda, and even the different sides of St Martin.
We did a haul out one day to check the anodes, give the bottom a pressure
wash, remove any barnacles and fit a water scoop to force water into the
watermaker when under way so we can make water while sailing.
It was a very awkward approach with quite a lot of wind. I had asked what
their VHF frequency was, but they don't have VHF radio. You'd think the yard
would have a simple $100 hand held VHF to guide you in to their narrow approach,
but no chance. They rely on frantic hand waving that conveys nothing. We nudged
the bottom a few times before resting up on a sand bank on a falling tide. With
the wind and a long keel we had no chance of turning enough to get free.
A boat from the next yard was called and in 5 minutes we were free and turned
stern in for the travel lift.
We were amazed to see just how big this boat is when you're standing next to
her out of the water.
By lunchtime it was all done and we went back into the water around 2 pm.
The water maker scoop works brilliantly, the anodes were fine, and no sign of
any osmosis blisters anywhere.
Anchoring here in the lagoon is difficult. The bottom is sand covered with
weed and the anchor just slips along on the weed without digging in. The first
time we had to make about 5 attempts before getting a good grip, which is
important because we get wind gusting through here at 30+ knots on
occassions.
But we've got better. We can just make out where there are small weedless
patches and get the hook down, let out plenty of chain, reverse until it sets,
reverse harder, then attach the snubber. We've not had an inch of drag with this
big anchor once it's set, which is a big comfort.
Last weekend we decided we needed a break and there was nothing the riggers
were going to do on the boat until Monday, so we motored around to the French
side for a change of scene.
On Friday night we anchored in Marigot Bay and went ashore in the morning to
see the market. The stalls all have the same stuff, particularly clothing, and
fruit. You really do wonder how they compete and survive. No wonder they
hussle.
But we did get a couple of cheap tee shirts and Sandy got some spices. The
spices are amazing... fresh and grown right here in the Caribbean. There is
something special about grating fresh nutmeg or cacao.
In the afternoon we motored on to Friars Bay where sea turtles are sometimes
seen. In the season it has a reputation for the typical Caribbean scene with
live music and a happy buzz, but it was quiet although still beautiful. We
hopped over the side with flippers and snorkles and took a slow swim to the
beach. No sea turtles although we both saw a flipper break the surface a couple
of times but it was gone by the time we swam over to the area.
That evening we anchored off Grande Case which has a fairly bohemian sector.
Again we wandered down the main road just before dark thinking we'd find a place
where cruisers hang out and enjoy a 'happy hour'. They've never heard of happy
hour. All we found were expensive, practically empty restaurants, and one small
section where cheap local food is plentiful. We bought some to take back to the
boat and that was my dinner taken care off. I think Sandy had her usual standby
meal... a packet of crisps!
On Sunday we motored back to Marigot and anchored just long enough to go
ashore and buy fresh French bread, and a couple of pastrties... as you do.
Sunday night and we were anchored back in the lagoon. But on our approach to
the bridge, just on it's last opening to get in to the lagoon, the idiotic
Island Coast Guard came along side and asked to board for an inspection!
I said they could board once we were through the bridge, which is narrow and
takes full concentration with swift flowing currents.
They said to keep going for the bridge and they'd come aboard anyway. I was
livid. Plain straight idiocy and dangerous.
They proceded to ask for all our papers, and got Sandy to go below and haul
out our flares etc. They gave her a hard time because some were way out of date.
Well, we have current ones too, and I'd decided that if ever we were in a
situation where we had used our current ones, it sure would be handy to still
have out of date ones which would still work 90% of the time.
Then they started asking silly questions as we were charging for the narrow
opening, like what is our Australian telephone number...! I said "Don't have one
and I'll answer any more questions on the other side." They got the message.
Later that evening a 50ft yacht got it's keel tangled in another boat's
anchor chain and they were struggling to get free. I tried to call the coast
guard t give a hand. Of course they were nowhere to be found.
Well it's now Friday morning and we got the ok to have the boat on the
riggers dock at 8 am. We were supposed to leave last night but there is no
hurrying island time. We're optomistic that the job will be completed today,
along with a bunch of other stuff we need to do, and that we will be able to
exit the lagoon with the 4:30 pm bridge opening, and just keep going.
We will still be able to ride the favourable weather window. Heaven help us
if we have to wait until Monday for the work to be completed because who knows
how much longer we could be stuck here waiting for the next opportunity.
Dog bites and peroxided ears??
On the Friday before motoring to the French side, I was walking near some run
down looking humpies and keeping an eye on a black dog lying by the fence,
keeping an eye on me.
Without warning I suddenly felt an impact from behind my right leg, along
with a growl and sharp pain. I half turned and swung a bag I had at a brown
mongrel that was attached to my leg. Out of the corner of my eye I saw the black
dog on it's feet and charging towards me too.
The brown dog had lost it's grip with the impact of the bag which had some
heavy boat bits in it but was coming in again just as the black dog was close
enough for me to try to fend it off, but it ignored me and hammered straight
into the brown dog just inches from my leg!
They had a go at each other for about 10 seconds while I covered about a
mile.
Sometimes the good guys wear black. Back at the boat Sandy cleaned the bite,
with Listerine. It is after all a disinfectant, and rubbed antibiotic cream onto
the bite. It was really just 2 deep puncture wounds. We checked online and there
appears not to be a rabies problem here, so we went away for the weekend, and so
far I haven't bitten anyone. Come to think of it, it came close with the Coast
Guard.
And the peroxided ears? After our long swim at Friars Bay, both my ears had
water in them and I was close to totally deaf. We've all had this and in my case
my ears always clear in minutes.
Not this time. By that night we had tried everything. Hopping on one foot
bent over, hand palm suction, alcohol drops, warm olive oil... even syringing.
Nothing worked and the next morning it was still exactly the same. Eventually I
submitted to the most dodgy home remedy of all, and let Sandy drop hydrogen
peroxide in. 'Voila'... (we were on the French side). Two treatments in each ear
and I was cured. It does have a very disconcerting feeling. It crackles and
bubbles and pops and feels like some critter is climbing around in there. But
when the bubbling stopped and the peroxide drained I could hear normally. And no
critters, unless they were totally disolved.
Until next time... (in Panama) :-)